Back to Africa

For the past week I've been in and around Bamako, Mali. I was there for work, for the 2nd Africa Rice Congress. It was an amazing experience, although at the same time frustrating as I was sick for some of the time and therefore lacked a lot of energy that would have made the trip that much better.

I travelled with Arnaud, my French colleague - I mention his nationality specifically as it was brilliant having a native French speaker to ease the way through everyday interactions. We stayed at the Plaza Hotel (otherwise known as the Royal Hotel by Arnaud and at least one other taxi driver). The hotel had a good restaurant and a very friendly staff of Malians and Lebanese. Despite two leaks in two separate bathrooms - we had a very good time there. The staff were definitely the highlight with Arnaud leaving with a number of friends.

From Monday to Thursday we travelled to the conference centre, and spent the days there either in sessions, trying to corner important people to speak to or trying to maintain some semblance of calm over all our colleagues in the rest of the team. On Friday we travelled to the Office du Niger, a large (almost 1 million hectares) agricultural area for rice and cotton production (with some other minor crops as well). This area also includes "Malibya" a project to develop 100 000 hectares of the land, which has been bought by Libya and will be developed by Chinese engineers and agronomists. On the way there and back we saw lots of Baobabs, and I think I will need to go back to give a couple a hug!

The Chinese presence is very real in Mali - most of the vehicles on the road are Djhakartas - small (what looked like) 50cc motorbikes, all made in China. Even most of the clothes are made in China, despite looking as "African" as the genuine article.

Back in Bamako, I spent the Saturday in the hotel in bed while Arnaud and Anne and Anicent went off to explore the city. Anne works for an NGO in Mali, and that is how Arnaud got in contact with her - we met on the Wednesday, and as Anicent, her partner, works in tourism, they offered to take us around on Saturday. They did on Saturday and Sunday - giving up a whole weekend for us - we felt very spoilt! When they got back on Saturday, Arnaud thankfully convinced me to give up my attempt at being sensible and remaining in bed, and we went out for dinner again with A and A to the "hip" part of town. It was really good, I ate fried plantain and and a separate onion sauce. After another beer we took another taxi home. We took taxis everywhere - they are a bit similar to the cockroaches in Cape Town's townships, although perhaps not AS run-down. Obviously with the window open all the time, although the exhaust fumes from the Djhakartas and heavy trucks and all the dust in the air can be quite stifling.

Once Sunday rolled around I decided to suck it up and head out with the gang, having seen the awesome shirts Arnaud had made up for him at the market yesterday. Anicent and Anne took us to a market where they recycle old metal and make it into new things. Using literally anything not only for the raw material, but for the tools as well. The picture here shows a bellows made from a wheel and a carburettor. The products were mainly tools, although some decorative things like tea trays where being made from melted down aluminium (the silver in the middle of this sand mould.

The market was really big, and climbed up the side of a hill. Afterwards we walked down the hill and through another market where I bought some things. We eventually went for a lunch at a cafe and afterwards to a stall of a friend of Anicent's (although it seems as if he is friends with most of Bamako!). We then went back to the Hotel for some packing and after a middle of the night flight back to Paris and then an early morning train trip to Amsterdam, I was back home!

The last photo is the summary of my Bamako shopping. A big block of soap, 3 cds and plunger - because my shower drain at home was blocked (and is now no longer so!).

*sigh*

It does indeed feel like the end of the line. Today the collection of country representatives (ha ha) at CITES voted not to protect Atlantic Bluefin tuna. The trade in the fish that we once so loved in our tuna salad will continue (tinned tuna these days is normally skipjack).

Well, for now anyway. Soon they will fish the last one and our children will be making jokes about tuna, not dodos.

St. Paulopoli

Left for Hamburg early on Saturday morning, having replaced my bb with james' salvaged from his cyclocross bike (thanks man).

Went by train, read "after the party" about the ANC - really good, but had me tearing up, especially the bits of Mbeki's 'I am an African' speech. Got to Hamburg, removed my bike from bike bag (thanks B and Tom) and built it up and then walked about half the way to St. Pauli because the snow was super icey. Got found by Daniel, with a fantastic moustache, who gave me directions to reaperbahn. Eventually met a very hungover haterer. Had a hot chocolate and then met up with James and the rest of the Amsterdamage. Went to a friends house, drank a beer and then left for the start of the alley cat, stopping for a huge plate of veggie burger and chip goodness.

Met up with Siep and more of the boys and girls on the way to the start, and registered and asked various people what I was supposed to do. Started the alley cat which basically involved cycling from check point to checkpoint - at each checkpoint you got checked in, and then threw dice to see where you'd go to next - if you threw the same number as where you were, you had to go to jail and get a shot of corn (?) and then come back. Oh, you also got money at check points, but I never worked out what the point of the monopoly money was. So the night involved riding around, criss crossing (will make you jump jump) with loads of messengers and people generally trying to cycle as fast as possible and not fall off their bikes. For the record I only fell once (during the race).

The best memory was cycling like mad past the docks area as this grossly big cruise ship was being launched. Heard some old white guy in a suit talking about how some of the money was going to help kids - almost fell off my bike at this point. The revenge was had though - read on.

The after part was held at Hafenklang, and started with soup and bread and this was preceeded and anticeeded by beers. Partied on well into the middle of sunday morning, went and snatched a couple of hours of sleep, met everyone at a cafe for a goodbye beer and burrito. Went to say goodbye to everyone at the local squat, and as we were there the new cruise ship from last night sailed past. We took the opportunity to abuse it and all on board with a megaphone we had handy. I'll skip the choicest bits, but basically saying how silly they looked, that their money would never save them and that we wished the somali pirates the best of luck. We eventually tumbled into Vis' bus (complete with beds and lounge area) for the trip back. James slept, and me and Jan Willem drank a beer and ate an assortment of junk food while watching some rather mad films.

Got back to Amsterdam at about 9 this morning, and spent the whole of today recovering :-)

Good times.

Items gained:
1 x red and white cycling hat from hat swapping game at the party
4 x udis
1 x stiff body
lots x good memories